Roofing ExpertsAustralia

Roof Replacements

Tile Roof Replacement in Sydney

A fresh tile roof, correctly bedded and pointed, built to outlast the storms.

Tile Roof Replacement

Sydney is a tiled-roof city, and most of those tiles are decades old. Concrete tiles go porous and lose their surface coating; terracotta gets brittle and cracks underfoot; and old bedding mortar crumbles until ridge caps sit loose. When a tile roof reaches that point, spot repairs stop holding and a full tile replacement is the sensible fix. We strip the old tiles, renew everything underneath them, and re-lay a roof that sheds Sydney's summer downpours the way a tile roof should.

Why old tile roofs start leaking everywhere at once

Tiles rarely fail on their own -- the real leak points are underneath. Older tile roofs were often built with no sarking at all, so the tiles were the only barrier between you and the weather. Once individual tiles crack or slip, or capillary action draws water under the laps, there is nothing to catch it and the ceiling gets wet. Add crumbling ridge bedding and rusted valley irons and you get leaks in several places every big storm.

That is why patching an old tile roof so often disappoints: the tile you replaced was never the whole problem. A full replacement lets us install proper sarking as a genuine second line of defence.

New sarking, battens and correct tile laying

With the old tiles off, we lay anti-condensation sarking across the whole roof and fix new treated battens at the correct gauge so the tiles interlock and lap properly. Getting the batten gauge right is what stops wind-driven rain creeping back up under the tiles. We then lay the new tiles, clip the perimeter and exposed courses against wind uplift, and cut the valleys and hips cleanly.

Re-bedding and pointing the ridges and hips

Ridge and hip caps are the highest-maintenance part of any tile roof. We bed the caps on fresh mortar and finish with a flexible pointing compound rather than rigid cement, so the ridge can move slightly with heat and house movement without cracking straight back open. Done properly, the ridge line stays sealed for years rather than needing re-pointing every few seasons.

What's Included

  • Full strip of old tiles and inspection of the batten and rafter timbers
  • New anti-condensation sarking across the entire roof
  • New treated battens gauged to the replacement tile profile
  • Wind-clipping of perimeter and exposed tile courses
  • Fresh mortar bedding and flexible pointing to ridges and hips
  • New valley irons and re-flashing of all penetrations

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I switch from concrete tiles to terracotta, or the other way?

Yes, but weight and cost differ. Terracotta is generally lighter and keeps its colour without recoating; concrete is cheaper but can go porous over time. We check your frame can carry the chosen tile and match the profile to your home before recommending either direction.

My old tile roof has no sarking -- is that a problem?

It is common on older Sydney homes and it leaves the tiles as your only weather barrier, so any crack or slip lets water straight in. A replacement is the ideal time to add sarking as a true second line of defence, which dramatically cuts the chance of future ceiling leaks.

Why does my ridge capping keep cracking after repointing?

Usually because it was pointed with rigid cement over failing bedding. The ridge moves with heat and settlement and the hard pointing cracks straight back. We re-bed on fresh mortar and use a flexible pointing compound that flexes with that movement instead of splitting.

Can you reuse my existing tiles to save money?

Sometimes a proportion can be reused if they are sound, but old tiles are brittle and many break during removal. We are honest about this -- if reusing tiles means constant future breakages, a new tile is better value. We will tell you what your tiles are realistically worth reusing.

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